LETTER FROM UNCLE TALLEY
He Tells of His Adventures and Experiences on His Trip to the New Land of Canaan in Old Mexico
San Louis Potosi
Nov. 27, 1902
St. James Hotel, 10 a.m.
Friend, “Crit:” – Leaving Mangum at 4 p.m., I overtook Ingram and party at San Antonio on the 26th , 9 a.m. Was frequently delayed by the softness of the road, caused by the recent excessive rains. The I. & G.N. train waited several hours for trains from the east. Arrived at Loredo (sic) about sundown. Mexican currency quoted in the exchange at $2.80; we exchanged at ticket office on Mexico side for $2.53. The writer got into, what appeared to our part, to very serious trouble with the custom house officers, but was hurriedly rescued by some charming Mexican senoras and senoritos, which enabled him to have a most delightful treat of music, social conversation and enjoyment, of which can learn particulars from Mr. Ingram on his return. Arrived here last night or this morning at about 2 a.m. The son-in-law of Blalock’s landlady was on the train and kindly escorted us to the St. John hotel, which we found to be all that could reasonable be desired or asked. Blalock and all our party are well and every prospect is favorable. I bought a tourist ticket at Fort Worth for $45.35 to the city of Mexico and return, good for nine months with privilege of stop over, and special rates to many points, also omnibus transfer, etc.
Our arrival here so far behind time was caused, in part, by three freight cars being off the track in a curve, where a small stream of water make the track soft. Blalock is now engaged with his man closing up the Rascom business and when that is done will proceed to the city of Mexico. Have learned many things that will be of great value to the colonists, which they can better learn from Messrs. Ingram, McMicheal and White than from anything I can write.
Having returned from dinner will give you the bill of fare: Splendid soup, snap beans, radishes, green onions, roasting ears, two courses of beef, chicken, potatoes (Irish), bread, splendid coffee and dessert which consisted of green apple pie, and pudding – made of I do not know what but it was all good – all for thirty-five cents, Mexican currency, more than any of us could or did eat. The food was well cooked, finely flavored and if not well seasoned the necessary seasoning was at hand. There has been but one mishap to mar the pleasure of my trip so far it has been a succession of surprising good fortune. Even the little affair at Laredo was very much enjoyed by me, although my friends were a little uneasy for me for a few minutes. The little ugly thing happened at San Antonio, where I arrived at a very late hour in the night or early morning. I was very sound asleep. The conductor awoke me; the car was empty; seizing my baggage I hurried out of the car. A man I mistook for H.M. Henderson of Port Lavaca, who had been introduced to me on the train as a surveyor, land agent and one who had traveled extensively over the state of Texas, proposed to leave his baggage with me while he found a bed for us. In a few minutes he returned and said, “I have found a good bed just across the street.” I followed and having paid twenty-five cents a negro led the way to a nice room on the second floor. I fastened the door securely, and as everything was very still was soon asleep again. Next morning on awakening I took a good bath, and without putting on my coat I stepped out and walked down the steps on the outside into the back yard. I made a surprising discovery, which caused me to return to my room, put on my coat and overcoat, get my baggage and walk down those steps on the outside and cross the street to the depot. When I turned and looked back to the place where I had spent the night, I saw in large letters reaching across the front of the house:
THIS IS A SALOON.
I had already found that out on the inside, and that it was a gambling house also, well equipped for the “respectable” business, and I remembered Mark Twain’s “Innocence Abroad,” and said, not only to my self, but also to a policeman, that it was the first time in my life to sleep in a gambling house. He asked me if I gambled, and I told him I did not. He answered “all right.” Immediately my friend who had taken a different room came up. I saw at once my mistake; saw that it was not Mr. Henderson of Port Lavaca. I told him the character of the house in which we had lodged so quietly and nicely. He seemed much surprised, and told me that he was from New York and was on his way to Los Angeles, Cali., and as he was going a different road we’d have to separate. He kept asking me so many questions about Oklahoma generally and Greer county in particular that the omnibus left and my kind policeman informed me of my situation and showed me which streetcar to take, and thanking him with all my heart I was soon at the I. & G.N. depot – a few minutes before nine a.m., and met Ingram and the others.
Lest I make this my first communication to the SUN-MONITOR too long, I will close. S.C. TALLEY.
UNCLE TALLEY’S SECOND EPISTLE.
CITY OF MEXICO, Dec. 5.
According to promise I write you again. I have been in the wonderful city since Sunday evening. Yesterday was the first clear day; the sun is shining brightly this morning, and we are expecting the pleasure of a personal interview with the promoter of colonization, as the bank’s lawyer sent his name and ours last evening, requesting him to name the hour that would suit his convenience to receive him and us. We expect him to give us early audience as I suppose it is not every day that he has the privilege of holding an interview of much importance as this appears to be to us. We are aiming to plead earnestly for the admission of our old organs, pianos and other musical instruments free of duty, or at a nominal rate. May shed a few tears as we think of how dear to the hearts of our women these treasures are.
I have visited many of the various noted places. Gaudaloupe (sic), drank at the springs that boils up in such profusion at the base of the hill; climbed the stone steps to the grave of Santa Anna, “the Napoleon of the West, “ who met his Wellington in Sam Houston at San Jacinto; walked around amid the profusion of flowers and the early tombs of the illustrious dead; looked at the snow capped mountains, walked slowly and solemnly, with head bared, through the cathedral, and beheld scenes I shall not attempt to describe.
But to return to the things that are of more importance, to the colonists, who perhaps are wondering why Blalock stays so long amid these scenes so sublimely beautiful. The officials here seem to be slow, but not more so than is necessary in such important transactions; the greatest care is taken that no mistakes are made in the maps, translations and all the details of the transfer; and when our people see the result they will put such a sense of security in the possession of the valuable property they will be ready to say of Blalock and the Mexican authorities, “well done thou good and faithful servants.” Do not know how soon we will be able to leave here and go to Chamal, but will as soon as the business is in a shape that it will do to leave. Blalock is so exceedingly anxious to get home that he may start any day, and were it not that he feels that he is needed more here than there would leave at once.
The ladies will be glad to learn that washing here will be so light a job as compared to Greer. Ingram this morning changed a collar that he put on at San Antonio the morning of the 26th, and has worn ever since and it was only slightly soiled. I am still wearing the white shirt I was wishing to keep until I had an opportunity to appear in the presence of the official dignities here, that at Laredo was grabbed up in such haste at the custom house with my other “store clothes” that the custom house officials did not get an opportunity to put a stamp on my telescope, and Ingram was afraid that the noble Senoras and Senoritas might not be near enough to come to my rescue. So I put my new clothes on and have worn them ever since, and have nothing in my telescope that hasn’t Greer county dirt on it to show that it is or has been in use, and do not expect to put on even a clean collar.
I have not heard an angry word, but few oaths, and they were used by Americans from force of habit; no drunk men or disorderly conduct. I have not seen any negroes since I have been in the city. The streets are kept clean, all filth, dirt and trash are scraped and swept by men who are all the time busy with scrapers and brooms, shoveling into sacks kept at convenient distance to be carted away.
S.C. TALLEY |